By the numbers

86 days away from home
25 stays in motels, baches, holiday homes, etc
7 airline flights
9079 kilometers driven (4705 in 4 NZ rental cars, 4374 in our friends' Jaguar)
146 pieces of mail waiting for us at home

We’ve been away for 86 days now. When we first arrived in NZ we stayed for 12 restful days in our friends’ bach. Then we moved for three days to a holiday flat, then two nights in a city hotel, then three nights in a small cottage, etc. We didn’t expect to be moving quite so often. It works out to an average of just over three days in each place!

Packing and unpacking stuff from the car turned out to be complicated. We had tried to pack lightly but we were going for three months and needed business wear as well as casual wear. We had our luggage, one medium size wheeled bag each plus a small duffle bag for the overflow. We had a wheeled carryon and two laptops, each in a backpack. We bought an extra bag (in lime green!) just so we wouldn’t have to pack the bags so tightly every time we moved out of a motel. We had two inexpensive cooler bags from the supermarket for our groceries (we couldn’t eat three meals a day in restaurants). We had another reusable supermarket bag for dry foods (cereal, bread, laundry detergent, etc). We usually had a bag for laundry, and another one for books to read.

After our experience with the car being broken into, we took everything into the motels every night. We started to look for motel units on the ground floor so we wouldn’t have to carry everything up stairs (elevators are rare).

Originally we had thought that we would be staying several weeks in each place. I was worried about being bored while Barry was working each day. I packed supplies for a craft project and a new scrapbook project, and my laptop. Well, the scrapbook project is untouched, the craft project is just started, but my laptop has been worth its weight in gold. I could keep in touch with family on MSN, keep up with the banking, upload my photos daily, and keep up the blog. It was invaluable when deciding on our next weekend getaway, as I could search internet sites like bookabach.co.nz or holidayhomes.co.nz while Barry was working.

All in all, we had a wonderful time and would do it again in a heartbeat.

(Note: When I was looking at my blog recently I found this story had never actually been posted so did that in January 2009.)

Let it snow

We arrived in Toronto to our son's house to below freezing temperatures and the aftermath of an ice storm. There was still ice on the ground and snow was lightly falling to cover it up, pretty but a recipe for car accidents and broken bones. The snow scraper broke in Barry’s hand as he was clearing off the car.

It's such a climate change from NZ. We got used to long spring days and sunny skies, and green everywhere. We went for long walks every day. In Canada, the trees are bare, the sky is grey, it's very cold and it gets dark by 5pm. Of course, we didn't remember to bring our winter coats to Toronto for the long drive home. Sigh!!

My young tour guide

I spent part of the morning following my young friend Eden (2 yrs 2 months) as he gave me a guided tour of Massey University. His Mommy was attending a lecture. We wandered along the pathways, around the gardens, beside the roads. He wanted to touch every light along the path, and he told me the words for everything he saw: "Black bird!" . It was graduation day, and he particularly enjoyed watching the groups of young people in their long black gowns "Big people!" He had to climb the steps behind the Massey U. sign, even though the families were taking photos there. I wonder how many graduation photos were taken that will prove to have a small blonde head visible in the background.

Yes to Wind

New Zealand has been nuclear free since legislation was enacted in 1984, and therefore they have to look to other sources for energy. There are currently 11 windfarms around NZ, each having from one to 55 turbines, able to power in total around 145,000 average homes.

Five of the windfarms are located around Palmerston North where we are spending the final two weeks of our stay. They don’t offer tours, but we went to a viewing area for the Te Apiti Windfarm in the scenic hills above the Manawatu Gorge.

Surprisingly, you can only hear a slight swishing noise when standing right under the turbines.

Missing Lucia

It’s really been complicated to try to arrange a webcam call to visit with our 21 month old granddaughter in North America. By the time she comes home after daycare, it’s already the middle of the working day here. On weekends we have usually been somewhere without a good internet connection.

But this weekend we managed it. It’s the long Thanksgiving weekend in the U.S. and therefore she is at home during the day, and we were in a motel with a fast broadband connection.

Lucia had just woken up from a nap and was a little sleepy at first. I thought maybe she had forgotten us. But as she woke up she became more and more interested in playing with us. We were having our cereal so she had some cereal too, watching us between bites. When she finished her snack she got down from her high chair (“Out!”)and showed us her favourite books, carefully bringing each one to her Mommy’s computer and laying it on the keyboard in front of us. She brought us her mail from her toy house, showed us her elephant from the zoo, pointed to her nose (and our noses on screen) and finally started calling us by name: Pappy, which seems to have evolved from the Bapa she used to call us.

We miss you, sweetie.

Oversize artworks

We see this type of giant image everywhere we go in NZ. They're fond of outdoor art above shops here. The silver fish and the crayfish are obviously advertising what these two restaurants in Kaikoura each had on the menu, but the elephant was over a coffee shop in Invercargill. I don't know what elephants have to do with coffee.

Walking the clifftop

Kaikoura has an amazing clifftop walk, part of the Kaikoura Peninsula Walkway. It’s over an hour from one end to the other, and of course you have to go up the hill at each end from the car parks to the cliff top. The sign at the start said: “Experience panoramic views of ocean, rocky coastline, twisted limestone, seals and sea birds”. The views were so fabulous it was hard to pick a best photo.

We walked parts of it several times during our stay there, and on our last afternoon we walked it from the South Bay car park to Point Kean and back. We had to be careful to stay on the track, and to cross over every stile we found. Once we missed a stile and had to retrace our steps because we ended up in a field full of cows, and couldn't get back to the track. Of course, if we'd been paying attention we would have noticed that every time the path changed direction, there was a big metal pole. It took us 2.5 hours that day, and according to my pedometer, we walked over 11,000 steps, or over 4 miles. That’s a new record for me.

Kaikoura

Kaikoura is a town on the upper west coast of the South Island. The name Kaikoura translates (in Maori) to food/crayfish. You can buy local crayfish ready cooked from shacks along the State Highway north of town. Crayfish in New Zealand refers to lobster, although their crayfish does not have a large claw like our lobsters do, and therefore have slightly less meat.

Kaikoura is situated on a small peninsula and is surrounded by ocean and beautiful mountains. Offshore, the sea bed drops away rapidly to the Kaikoura Canyon which brings much sea life near the shore. It's renowned for whale-watching tours and swimming with dolphins.

Fur Seals

The north west coast of the South Island is a popular place for fur seals. The rocky coastline and well stocked ocean make for a wonderful habitat for the seals. You can see small groups of seals as you drive along the coast. We have seen some locations where you can walk almost up to the seals. Signs warn you to stay more than 10 metres away because they can bite if disturbed. However, the lazy male in the picture barely raised an eyebrow as people continually walked around him to get back to the parking lot from the limestone shelf around Kaikoura.

Swimming with the dolphins

Every trip has a highlight. When I had the chance to go swimming with the dolphins in Kaikoura, Sheelagh encouraged me saying, “You will really enjoy this”. And sure enough I did. The adventure begins by being fitted with a wetsuit, flippers, snorkel and mask. On our boat there were 13 swimmers and five watchers. Then we all get on a boat and head offshore to a place where there is a canyon under the sea. The dolphins spend their days here and search for food at night. They do not sleep but they do rest often during the day.


We were instructed to swim with our heads in the water (while breathing through the snorkel) and let the dolphins come to us. Apparently we have to make ourselves interesting. We were instructed that it was our job to entertain the dolphins, not their job to entertain us. I hummed music and while I saw plenty of dolphins up close, my music probably kept more of them away. The dolphins come so close they almost touch you. You feel a little like they are inspecting you. They move so gracefully through the water that you feel somewhat inadequate because you are so inept in the water by comparison.

I swam with Dusky Dolphins. These are small dolphins that are approximately five feet in length when they reached adulthood. Dusky dolphins live in large pods of 100 or more and are very social. They like people and they delight in showing off their acrobatic skills. They leap from the water and sometimes do forward or backward somersaults.

The water was listed as 15 degrees C but it felt more like 0. You really appreciate the warm shower and hot chocolate when you are finished. -Barry

Ferry across Cook Strait

We had a few days free after working in Wellington, so we took the Interislander Ferry to the South Island. Some call the South island the mainland, because it is slightly larger than the North Island. However, the South Island is much less populated (25% of the population) and much more rugged.

The Ferry crosses Cook Strait and takes about 3.5 hours. The last hour involves a scenic trip through the Queen Charlotte Islands and is simply breath taking. We arrived on a cloudy day but it was still quite beautiful. After we arrived in Picton (the ferry terminal) we found a small motel and took in the view from our window. The view included seeing the Ferry returning to Wellington. -Barry

Whitebait

There is a tiny little fish (5mm) that is unique to New Zealand and considered a delicacy. It has been referred to as New Zealand caviar. The locals go out to the mouths of streams in great numbers to catch the little creatures in homemade nets. Fishing does not require a license although there are some restrictions on the size of the fish (don’t know how they can tell). The fish is almost transparent. The delicacy sells in the supermarkets for around $130. NZD per kilo. The whitebait is eaten as is, bones, skins etc. We have eaten it in restaurants cooked into an omelet or breaded and fried.

Whitebaiting is a commercial industry and these nets were permanently located on the banks of the Tutara Stream in the Catlins. We took this photo to show the size of the nets. There were many small shacks along the banks of this stream, about the size of a ice fishing shack. The fishermen & women must spend weekends there waiting for the whitebait to come upriver.

Sandcastle

One of our favourite places to stay is the Sandcastle Motel. It is located on the Kapiti coast about an hour drive north of Wellington. The motel itself is really quite fantastical. It looks just like a sandcastle, with towers and turrets, but the rooms are decorated in early salvation army and nothing matches. But we love the location. Just a few steps over the sand dune puts you on a marvelous beach where you can walk for miles. You might see someone on horseback, or someone else walking or you might not.


The sunsets in the evening over Kapiti island are always beautiful. The owners have conveniently placed benches on top of the dunes for watching the ocean and the sunsets.

The smallest Library in NZ

On days when we have to check out of a hotel in the morning but can’t leave town until after the working day ends, I often go to the local library. There are usually comfy chairs in quiet corners, lots to read of course, and bathrooms. I settle in to a spot, and read my book or get out my laptop.

However, I don’t think this small library in Ferry Landing near Whitianga would have any of these amenities. It isn’t any larger than an average garden shed!

Whose President?

Our friends Harley and Lilian spent the weekend meandering down the South Island by car, before joining us in Invercargill. When they met up with us and said they had driven from Clinton to Gore, along the 'Presidential Highway', I was sure it was another example of NZ humour. “You’re putting me on, right?”

Well, I didn’t really believe them until I saw the sign for myself. We drove back together from Invercargill to Dunedin and there it was. Of course, this time we were driving from Gore to Clinton, but it’s the same highway. Do you think the U.S. would name a highway after a New Zealand Prime Minister and his/her Deputy Prime Minister?

Niagara Falls (NZ)

We had a free weekend while we were in the South Island and decided to go exploring the Catlins National Forest, near Invercargill. It’s isolated, and windswept; something like the East Cape, only smaller. We were told to be sure to pack a lunch because there are no cafe's.

On our tour map was a small town named Niagara. We decided we had to go there. And when we got there we noticed a sign pointing to Niagara Falls!

It turns out that the original land surveyor for the area (in the 1800's?) had previously visited North America's Niagara Falls and must have had a sense of humour, because he named the little rapids in the stream Niagara Falls. The town (one cafe and two houses) decided to capitalize on its fame(?) and posted a sign with a photo of our Niagara Falls.

In case the photo is not clear, it's taken from beside their sign with the falls showing over the top.

More on baggage

We have now flown three domestic flights and the joke's on me. After tossing all that stuff, our checked bags ended up each weighing 5 lbs under the limit. And nobody gave our small heavy wheeled carryon a second glance, nor our two backpacks containing our laptops.

I keep missing stuff that I know I brought with me to NZ. I searched all our bags today before I remembered that I left that item behind in Auckland. It didn't weigh very much, either. Oh well.

Baggage Allowances

Airlines have variable luggage weight restrictions. International trans-ocean flights are the most generous, usually allowing two 50 lb checked bags for each person. However, because we didn’t book all our flights at the same time and on the same ticket, we had to comply with Air Canada’s baggage allowances for Canada to U.S. flights, only one 50 lb bag per person. Since we were traveling for three months, and it’s business travel at that, I thought we didn’t do too badly packing to that limit. We were slightly over, but Air Canada let us through.

Now, however, we are flying internally on Air New Zealand to the South Island for a week-long lecture tour. Their baggage allowance on internal flights is only 44 lbs per person. They only allow one 15 lb carry on per person, and your computer case is not exempt as it is on most North American airlines. My carry on bag weighs 7 lbs empty!

So we have found ourselves with extra weight. We’ve been here for 7 weeks, and we bought a gift or two. We have groceries, we have laundry detergent, and we have wine. We have a chilly bin (cooler). We have extra books to read. We have folding lawn chairs. We had to buy an extra duffle bag to hold all the stuff. And now we can’t take it with us.

I have given away the extra books and I have tossed the perishables. I am doing some hard pruning and will leave the extra stuff in the trunk of the Jaguar at our friend’s house, until we rejoin the Jag in mid November.

I can hear my children snickering now.

Auckland Zoo

We spent an afternoon at the Auckland Zoo. Definitely the highlight of the day was being allowed to feed the giraffes. The feeding platform is high enough to allow people to feed the giraffes at their height. This giraffe is Kay, the mother of the zoos' latest baby, a girl giraffe named Ntombi, which means 'girl' in Zulu.

Railway Not in Use (thank goodness)

There are a lot of one lane bridges in NZ. I think we see more than our share of them because we always seem to take the road less traveled. This one between Opotiki and Whakatane, however, takes the cake. It’s very long, so long it needs a traffic light because a driver can’t see to the other end for approaching vehicles. The railway tracks down the middle certainly gave us a bad moment, until we read the sign.

Beyond the Bean

On our way out of Opotiki we stopped for coffee at this mobile coffee van. Inside it is gleaming chrome & stainless steel. The owner said he starts out the day in town, then drives a few km to the beach parking lot, back to town for the morning tea break, back to the beach, etc, all day long. I took the photo because of the name (this one’s for you, Brian).

Opotiki

We stayed in a nice little cottage in Opotiki both before and after our East Cape trip. It was at the end of the owner's garden beside a kiwi orchard. This photo is of Barry beside one of the tree hedges protecting the orchard from the coastal winds. You can see its a hedge from the shadows on the left. Yes, it's really that high!

The Ladies Rest Room

New Zealand, like many European countries, has public toilets everywhere. This building, in Opotiki, is one of my favourites. It was built during the Art Deco period, likely in the 1930's. Over the door it says “Ladies Rest Room”, but it’s not actually a toilet anymore; there is a new building constructed next door to serve that function. The rest room appears to be an exhibit space now.

Painted convicts

Every small town and village in NZ seems to have one or two wall murals. Wherever there is a blank wall or a building that needs brightening up, there will be a big mural. This is my favourite though. It’s not really a mural, I suppose, but the windows on this old goal in Gisborne are boarded up and the wood painted with inmates looking out. The Churchill Park Goal was built in 1910 and was in use until 1953, when it was converted into a holiday camp, where campers could sleep in the cells!

East Cape Lighthouse

The East Cape Lighthouse is the first place in NZ to see the sun each day, being the most easterly spot in the country. It can only be reached along a one lane road 20 km long, ending in a small parking area. To actually see the lighthouse you have to walk back along the road from the parking lot, go through a gate and along a private driveway and up the hill, and through another gate and then up 700+ steps to the lighthouse. I had thought we would be able to see the lighthouse, or at least the sea, from the parking area. Think again! Although the drive there was beautiful, remote, rugged, somehow it seemed a let down to go all that way and not see even the top of the lighthouse. So I said, sure, I’ll walk part way up. The sign on the gate warned “25 minutes to the top”. The group coming down said “oh it’s not so bad, we made it up in 8 minutes!” Of course, they were younger than me.

I made it up to and past step 150 (it was etched in the wood). There was a bench about half way up where I thought I might stop. And then a man passed us on his way down who had a prosthetic leg and was using two walking sticks. He'd been to the top! That spurred me on. After a few more huffs and puffs there was a step marked ‘only 300 steps to go’. And then I found myself at the top! Of course, it took me more than 8 minutes. And I needed a rest when I got there.

I realize that most people take photos of the ocean and the cliffs from the lighthouse, but this photo was more important to me. This is a view, from the top, of the parking lot where I started the walk.

East Cape

We had six days to get to Gisborne (on the East Coast) from Auckland. We’ve wanted to drive the East Cape scenic route to Gisborne for some years. It’s a long drive just to get to the beginning of the East Cape from Auckland and the guide books all recommend taking several days to make the 330 km drive around the Cape. We attempted the trip last year but the weather prediction for the weekend we had available was rain, rain and more rain so we just holed up in a nice rental condo on the beach near Whakatane.

The East Cape is one of the most sparsely populated areas in NZ. The coast is windswept and rugged, and the road has spectacular sea views. Most of the population in this area is Maori, and here they own 80% of the land.

It's also well known as having few facilities, ie motels, restaurants, gas stations, etc, although the road is now mostly paved! We filled up the Jaguar with fuel before we left. We stocked up on groceries. Our six days included a long holiday weekend so we decided to pre-book our accommodation, not usually necessary in the off season.

Our somewhat funky motel did have a restaurant, and it was open from 6pm-7pm. Get hungry after that and you are on your own!

Front door?

When you arrive at the bach in Muriwai, you have to walk up a set of wood steps to get to the entry. It's a frosted glass door, as are many front doors in New Zealand. However, the manager of the property directed us around the corner to the huge deck and the sliding glass doors that open from it. I didn't think any more of it.

We soon realized why she didn't take us through that front door. The photo shows that it's actually an exterior door to the (only) shower, so that people coming up from the beach can shower off the sand.

The shower curtain doesn't go all the way around, however. We were surprised when we realized just how much can be seen through the glass, but then we saw the humour in it. We just hope that no-one comes to call when the owners are in the shower. Apparently it's an even better view from the outside!

Fishing

Everywhere we go in NZ we see fisherman. Of course there is a lot of coastline, and many rivers. Even the New Zealand Herald has a daily fishing calendar on its weather page. This sign was posted at the top of the steps down to a favourite fishing spot at Muriwai.



The fishermen go out on the rocks near the gannet colony, but it seems to me that they are flirting with danger. This photo was taken just after high tide, when the huge waves were still washing over the flat rock shelf.

Parasurfing

Muriwai is famous for its black sand beach. The black sand was created by volcanic activity, and apparently it’s very hot to walk on in the summer. However, the beach is 60 km long and is very popular with surfers. One afternoon we walked for a long distance up the beach to watch the parasurfers practicing their sport. They ride the air currents parallel to the beach and sometimes take giant leaps into the air and do somersaults, supported by the parachutes.

Gannets at Muriwai

The Gannet Colony at Muriwai is quite well known. Many Aucklanders will make the day trip out here for the beach and to visit the gannets. It’s one of the few mainland colonies in NZ (ie. not on an island) which means you don’t need to get on a boat tour, people can walk to the viewing platforms to watch the birds doing their mating rituals and building their nests. There is a larger colony on Bonaventure Island in the Gaspe which we visited many years ago; we have a photo of that colony on our kitchen wall.